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Volcanic Soils

7 hours ago
6 min read

Introduction to Mary's thoughts, theme selection and new passion project, Vinum House. You can learn more about this next exciting chapter at www.vinumhousegroup.com.





A note from Mary:

There’s something about this time of year that makes me think about change. Fall is a season of transition. The seasons shift, the landscape begins to change, and we naturally start thinking about what’s next. There’s something beautiful about that reminder—that change doesn't always mean leaving something behind. Sometimes, it means growing into what comes next.And that has felt especially true for me lately. Over the past few years, so much of my life and work has evolved. I've built wine businesses, taught hundreds of students, traveled, studied, opened Decant, created experiences, and continued learning what it really means to build a life and career around wine. And now, I'm stepping into another chapter. I've been quietly building something called Vinum House.  Many of you have followed me through different chapters of this journey, so I wanted you—our Wine Club community—to be among the first to hear more about it.


Vinum House brings together many of the things I've always been passionate about: wine, hospitality, education, travel, producers and the people and places behind the bottle. Through Vinum House, I'll be sharing more about the producers and regions I love, wine education, hospitality, wine travel, industry connections and experiences that connect people more deeply with wine. We are hosting private events and tastings in the comfort of your home, corporate, connecting with wineries and more.  You can support and learn more about this initiative by following me on social media @vinumhousegroup or subscribe to the newsletter at www.vinumhousegroup.com. And since this month's Wine Club theme is Volcanic Soils, I couldn't think of a better month to talk about transformation. Volcanoes literally reshape landscapes. They create something new from what was there before—and eventually, those ancient changes become part of the vineyards and wines we enjoy today.


What happens when vineyards grow in the remnants of ancient volcanoes? How does geology influence the way vines grow and grapes ripen? And does “volcanic soil” actually make a wine taste different?

This month’s wines give us a chance to explore those questions across Washington, Italy, Greece and Oregon.



VOLCANIC SOILS

BOOMTOWN CABERNET SAUVIGNON - Washington State | Yakima County

We’re starting in Washington, where much of the eastern part of the state sits over the ancient Columbia River Basalt created by massive volcanic activity millions of years ago.

The Yakima Valley is Washington’s oldest AVA, and its vineyards have a fascinating geological history. Ancient volcanic basalt was later covered by sediments deposited by the enormous Missoula Floods. These soils can provide excellent drainage, while Washington’s sunny days and cool nights help grapes develop ripe fruit while maintaining freshness and acidity.

Dusted Valley, the Walla Walla winery founded by Wisconsin natives Chad Johnson and Corey Braunel.

In 2003, the two left corporate careers behind and moved to Walla Walla with a dream of making wine. Corey came from a farming family in Wisconsin, while Chad and Corey had developed their appreciation for wine together before making the leap to Washington. Today, Dusted Valley remains a family-owned winery with a focus on Washington-grown fruit.

In the glass: Blackberry, black cherry, cocoa, herbs and spice with approachable tannins.

Pair it with: A grilled burger, steak, BBQ or a hearty mushroom dish.



From Washington, we head to northeastern Italy, just outside Verona, to one of Italy’s great white wine regions: Soave.

Pieropan is one of the historic names of the region, with a winemaking history dating back to 1880. Their Soave is made primarily from Garganega, the indigenous grape that defines the region. Pieropan is one of the historic families of Soave. The estate's story began in 1880 with Leonildo Pieropan, and today the family continues the estate with the fourth generation, brothers Dario and Andrea Pieropan. Dario is the oenologist, while Andrea focuses on agronomy and the vineyards. Together, they oversee more than 70 hectares across volcanic and limestone sites. 

The hills around Monteforte d’Alpone are particularly interesting for our volcanic-soils theme, with vineyards planted in ancient basalt and lava-derived soils.

The result is a wine that is beautifully fresh, mineral and textured.

In the glass: Lemon, pear, white flowers, citrus and subtle almond with bright acidity and a clean, mineral finish.

Pair it with: Fresh cheeses, salads, risotto, grilled vegetables or Mediterranean dishes.


Sicily is one of the most fascinating wine regions in the Mediterranean, and this wine gives us a chance to explore a different side of the island. Together, they create a smooth, approachable Mediterranean red.

Sicily is home to the spectacular volcanic landscape of Mount Etna. That's part of what makes Sicily so interesting: the island has an incredible diversity of soils and growing environments.

In the glass: Blackberry, plum, dark fruit, spice and Mediterranean herbs with soft tannins.

Pair it with: Pizza, pasta with tomato sauce, sausage, grilled meats or eggplant.

This might be the most interesting comparison in the box.

When you hear Assyrtiko, you probably think of Santorini—and for good reason. The grape originated there and has become famous for producing intensely fresh, high-acid wines from the island’s dramatic volcanic landscape.

The Zacharias family has been making wine in the Nemea region for generations, focusing on both indigenous and international varieties.

In the glass: Lemon, citrus, white peach, fresh herbs and mineral character with crisp, energetic acidity and a refreshing finish.

Pair it with: Oysters, fresh cheeses, Greek salad, grilled vegetables or anything with lemon and olive oil.


And finally, we're heading to Oregon, one of the great Pinot Noir regions of the United States.

Firesteed was founded in 1992 by Howard Rossbach, who built the brand around Oregon Pinot Noir. Over the years, the brand has worked with fruit from throughout Oregon's wine country, and its winemaking has included longtime Oregon winemaker Bryan Croft as well as consulting winemaker Bob Cabral, known for his work with Pinot Noir.

Oregon's Willamette Valley is particularly fascinating geologically. The valley contains both volcanic basalt-derived soils and marine sedimentary soils, creating distinct growing environments within relatively small distances.

This is a great wine for our volcanic-soils theme because Oregon's Willamette Valley has a fascinating mix of geological soils.

The Willamette Valley was shaped by ancient volcanic activity as well as massive geological events over time. Some of its most famous vineyard soils are volcanic basalt, while other areas are dominated by ancient marine sedimentary soils.

One of the most famous examples is the Dundee Hills, where the red Jory soils are derived from weathered volcanic basalt. Firesteed has produced Dundee Hills Pinot Noir from these volcanic soils, showcasing the connection between Pinot Noir and Oregon's geology

Firesteed's Pinot Noir showcases the bright, fresh side of Oregon Pinot.

In the glass: Cherry, cranberry and red berries lead the way, followed by earthy notes, toasted oak and cedar. The palate is bright with mouthwatering acidity, balanced fruit and a smooth, lingering finish.

Pair it with: Roast chicken, mushrooms, pork, duck or charcuterie.


Staying in Sicily, we're moving from a modern international blend to one of the island's most important indigenous grapes: Nero d'Avola.

The name roughly translates to “Black of Avola,” referring to the grape's dark color and its historical association with the town of Avola in southeastern Sicily.

Nero d'Avola thrives in Sicily's hot, dry Mediterranean climate, producing deeply colored wines with ripe fruit, body and plenty of personality.

And this is a great opportunity to make an important distinction about our volcanic theme: Sicily is volcanic, but not every Sicilian vineyard is volcanic. Mount Etna is one specific volcanic wine region. Nero d'Avola is grown throughout Sicily in a variety of soils and climates.

In the glass: Ripe blackberry, plum and dark cherry, with hints of fig, earth and spice. Full-bodied but approachable, with rounded tannins and a smooth finish.

Pair it with: Pizza, tomato-based pasta, sausage, grilled meats or eggplant dishes.



 SO…CAN YOU TASTE VOLCANIC SOIL?

That's the fun question we're exploring this month.

You may hear people describe wines from volcanic soils as “mineral,” “flinty,” “saline” or “earthy.” But it's not as simple as saying volcanic soil = mineral flavor.

Geology is one piece of the much larger terroir puzzle. Soil affects things like drainage, water availability and vine growth, while climate, elevation, aspect, grape variety and winemaking all contribute to what ultimately ends up in your glass.

This month, don't just taste the wine. Taste the place.

Think about where the vines grew, what the landscape looked like, and how very different geological histories—from ancient basalt in Washington to volcanic hillsides in Italy and the geological diversity of Oregon—can become part of the story we experience through wine.

I truly hope you enjoy this month’s selections!

Cheers! 

Mary

















 
 
 

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