FROM FIRE TO FALL
October Reserve Wine Selection - Wines shaped by Volcanic Soils
A note of introduction from Ian Johnson's selection
Fall always makes me want to open wines with a little more earth, texture, and personality. That thought led me to this month's theme: volcanic soils. For October, I chose two wines grown on Mount Etna in Sicily and one Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley in Oregon. They come from opposite sides of the world, but their vineyards share a volcanic past. I loved the idea of tasting how three producers work with landscapes formed by fire.
The connection to fall felt natural. Autumn is a season of change: the harvest comes in, leaves return to the earth, and the vineyard begins to rest. Volcanic landscapes tell a similar story. What begins as disruption eventually becomes new ground where vines can take root.
Volcanic soil does not make every wine taste the same, and it does not literally add a smoky flavor. What it can do is create demanding, well-drained growing conditions that help shape wines with energy, structure, and a strong sense of place.
Cheers,
Ian
What Volcanic Soil Has in Common With Fall
Volcanic soil and fall are both reminders that change can create something beautiful. A volcanic eruption reshapes the land; autumn closes one growing season and prepares the vineyard for the next. Neither is an ending so much as the beginning of another cycle.
That is what I like about this collection. These wines carry the energy of places that have been broken down and rebuilt by nature. They feel especially fitting in October, when the air cools, the landscape changes color, and the meals on our tables become warmer and more comforting.
JOIN ME FOR A TASTE
When you pick up your October Collection, stay for a few minutes and talk wine with me. I'd love to hear what you notice when you taste Sicily and Oregon side by side—and which bottle feels most like fall to you.
INSIDE THE COLLECTION
I'm sharing all three of October's selections here because each one shows a different side of this month's theme.
Benanti Etna Rosso
ETNA DOC | SICILY, ITALY
Nerello Mascalese + Nerello Cappuccio
Benanti is one of the producers that helped bring serious attention back to the wines of Mount Etna. This red is pale in color but not short on character, with red cherry, wild berries, dried herbs, gentle spice, and a savory, mineral finish. Its bright acidity and fine tannins make it elegant rather than heavy—the kind of red that becomes even more interesting as it opens in the glass.
PERFECT WITH Mushroom risotto, roasted pork, grilled sausages, tomato-based pasta, and aged cheeses.
Patricia Green Cellars Volcanic Pinot Noir
DUNDEE HILLS | OREGON
Pinot Noir
This Pinot Noir brings the volcanic-soil story much closer to home. Patricia Green Cellars works with Oregon sites rooted in ancient basalt, including the red Jory soils that define the Dundee Hills. The wine is expressive and silky, with red and dark berries, baking spice, an earthy note, and enough freshness to keep every sip lively. It is a beautiful comparison with Etna: a familiar grape showing what a very different volcanic landscape can do.
PERFECT WITH Roast chicken, pork tenderloin, wild mushrooms, salmon, and butternut squash.
Cottanera Etna Bianco
ETNA DOC | SICILY, ITALY
100% Carricante
Carricante is one of the grapes that makes Etna so exciting. Cottanera's version opens with lemon, citron, orange blossom, and jasmine. It has real presence on the palate, but the acidity keeps it crisp and gives the finish impressive length. This is a white with enough texture for cool-weather meals while still feeling fresh and lifted.
PERFECT WITH Roasted seafood, lemon-herb chicken, creamy pasta, risotto, and soft cheeses.
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